
June 4, 2024 – Barquiero to Cuiña – 25 kms – Hostal Restaurante Casa Giz
June 5, 2024 – Cuiña to San Andrés de Teixido – 29 kms – Casa Rural San Andrés de Teixido
Today we arrived at a major pilgrimage destination in Galicia. No, not that one, but rather San Andrés de Teixido. This one also involves an apostle, but St. Andrew rather than St. James. The story goes that St. Andrew settled into this area after his boat capsized. He grew envious of the pilgrim traffic to Santiago, so God and St. Peter promised him that all creatures would have to come to his sanctuary either in life or thereafter. One variation of the story has people coming here as reptiles or insects if they don’t make it in their lifetime. I guess Ruth and I have dodged that journey, but I still think I’m coming back as a cockroach.
The sanctuary is nestled on the flanks of a ridge overlooking the ocean in a remote area. It was a bit of work to get here, as we had to climb to 600 metres on a ridge and then drop down the other side. Our guidebook says that the 600 metre cliffs down to the sea are amongst the highest in Europe. We have to take his word for it, as all we could see was 2000 feet of cloud. It was quite otherworldly on top, however, so it was fun in its own way.
When the sun does come out we are treated to remarkable views of cliffs and the sea. Yesterday we came upon a directional sign to “the best bench in the world”. Who could resist checking that out? It was indeed a dramatically situated bench, with a sea cave in an island below, and vertically oriented rock strata all about.
Tomorrow we descend from the hills and continue on our journey to the better known pilgrimage destination in Galicia. While I’m looking forward to the final few chapters of this pilgrimage story, I will be a little sad to complete the wild and beautiful Camino del Mar.












As always, loved your post. Definitely not a cockroach; maybe an eagle. Or an owl.
You are once again too kind, both about the blog and my possible form in reincarnation. An eagle or an owl? Excellent choices.
is there any spiritual significance to your doing these various pilgrimages?
or are they just good routes for your waking and cycling?
or rather in general , what proportion of people, would you say, doing Pilgrimages are actually “pilgrims” of a sort ? and how many are just travellers out for a great outdoor adventure?
Ok good blog topic, I’ll bite.
Hah! I saw that blog post and thought “what a weird cooincidence. I just asked about spirituality”
But it was no cooincidence
I’m not sure I answered all your questions Peter but I tried. Caminos always feel different to me than bike trips. It’s a choice, I think because I do reflect more on them.
Such a lovely update as always. I surely hope to visit as a cicada in some lifetime!
Yes you will be the loudest one there.