June 1, 2024 – Foz to San Ciprián/Ciprao – 30kms – Hostal Buenavista

June 2, 2024 – San Ciprián/Ciprao to Viveiro – 30kms – Oli Vita Hostal

June 3, 2024 – Viveiro to Barqueiro – 25kms – Hostal O Forno

There are no municipal albergues on the Camino del Mar, but in Viveiro there is Oli Vita Hostal. Although it is not exclusively for pilgrims (there just aren’t enough), it’s run by Olivia, a passionate advocate for the Camino del Mar and a pilgrim herself.  It has one of the nicest dormitory rooms I’ve ever experienced, with fantastic mattresses and all the other comforts.  For pilgrims that can’t afford hotel and hostel rooms, this dormitory is an option for one, or a number of stages. The rail line links many of the towns and some pilgrims will return to her hostal for a few nights on the Mar. 

Gord and I prefer our own room, but when you are on a route with very few pilgrims, these are the places where you can connect with others and find out more about the route and area. When I am dreading the prospect of a night in a shared dorm room I have to remind myself that it was in rooms like these where I met some of my dearest friends: Eva in an albergue in Tuscany, Béatrice in Estang, France and our new friend Béatrice2 just before Toulouse. It does pay to move out of your comfort zone once in a while. 

As I write this I am relaxing on a double bed in our private room looking out at the sea after a long hot bath. Ok, balance is good. 

We are currently on our fifth day on the Camino del Mar. This route comes with daily options of going overland on the mountainous but official Camino del Mar, or taking the longer Camino Natural da Ruta do Cantabrico following the sea. So far we have chosen the sea route and have been rewarded with stunning scenery.