June 2, 2026 – Labastide to Bagnères de Bigorre – 26 kms – Pyrene Holidays Héraclès

June 3, 2026 – Bagnères de Bigorre to Lourdes – 28 kms – Hôtel Vesuvio 

June 4, 2026 – Lourdes – rain day – Hôtel Vesuvio

Gordon:  The Chemin de Saint Jacques is of course a religious pilgrimage, at least for some, so we do encounter numerous religious monuments, rituals and experiences.  For example, upon learning that we were pilgrims, one woman at a bakery threw in an extra tart and asked Ruth to pray for her.

While we are accustomed to a certain level of religious background, Lourdes is at another level.  We are spending a rest day here, only our second on this trip, so we have ample time to explore this unusual city.

Lourdes is of course the place where Mary appeared repeatedly in visions to a peasant girl, Bernadette, in the 19th century.  On the Vezelay pilgrimage route in 2014 we saw her “incorruptible” remains in Nevers, where she was a nun until her death at the age of 35.  There are also some of her relics in Lourdes in a chapel above the basilica, but they must be minimal.

If you are Catholic, you have heard of Lourdes, regardless of where you live in the world.  And if you are a devout Catholic, you would probably like to come here.  As a result, this city of 14,000 people has more than 20,000 hotel beds, the second largest in France after Paris.  It has an international feel, with large groups of visitors from Italy, Spain, Portugal, the United States, and other countries.  Our hotel, for instance, is operated by an Italian and appears to cater to an Italian clientele.

The cave where Mary made her appearances is of course a shrine.  Surmounting it is a large art deco basilica, with other chapels above it.  All of these churches conduct masses almost continuously in a variety of languages.

The basilica and related structures are actually quite beautiful.  Everything can be visited without cost, though there are ample opportunities to donate money or purchase candles (how about a 70 kg candle for 500 euros?).  You can also buy containers to be filled with free holy water in sizes varying from 50 ml to 4 litres.

There is a joyous vibe in the area of the sanctuary.  Youth groups are singing, international groups with identical hats are chatting and smiling, and an army of volunteers are pulling and pushing individuals in wheelchairs.  For many of the visitors, being in Lourdes is a lifelong dream.  Ruth says that her devout Aunt Jo came to Lourdes on her only trip to Europe.  It is difficult to be too critical of a place that gives joy to so many people.  And yes, Ruth did offer a prayer here for the baker with the delicious assortment of tarts.