May 3, 2026 – Agay to Roquebrune sur Argens – 27 kms – Les Jasmines apartment 

The bi-directional pilgrimage route in this area, the Via Aurelia, passes Cannes in the hills above the city.  Rather than immediately climbing up to join it, however, we decided to spend a few days on the coast to pass through some cities we had long heard of, but never visited.

We spent 2 1/2 days on the Côté d’Azur, going through the well known cities of Cagnes-sur-mer, Antibes, and Cannes, as well as a number of towns we were not previously familiar with.

It quickly became clear why this is such a popular region in France.  The natural setting is stunning, with clear, aquamarine water lapping red cliffs, the land behind rising quickly in hills covered with umbrella pines, and then climbing further inland into the still snow-covered Alps.  

It’s a beautiful, natural playground whose charms have not gone unnoticed.  We traversed the coast on a long weekend, but I suspect that the waterfront is always busy.  And there is ample evidence of So. Much. Money.  Super yachts drift offshore like Égalité death stars, large Belle Époque hotels stand shoulder to shoulder along the waterfront, and we frequently noticed business jets and helicopters coming and going from an unseen airport behind Cannes.

The walk or ride from Cannes to Agay was one of the most beautiful walks that I can recall.  It was wilder than the coast from Nice to Cannes, though there were plenty of hillside subdivisions, some of questionable architectural merit.  We walked and cycled along a series of corniche roads cut into the hillsides, high above the sea.  The red stone ridges and formations were spectacular.

We were so pleased that our Italian friend Paulo was able to join us for the two days between Nice and Agay.  We met Paulo in 2012 on the French portion of the Via Francigena.  Mostly through his efforts, we reunited in 2013 and 2024 on two other pilgrimages.  Paolo is a warm, bright, and easygoing fellow pilgrim, and I hope we meet again before too many more years pass.

This morning we turned away from the coast and went through the charming city of Fréjus.  We are following a Camino route that is also a Grande Randonnée.  While it’s pleasant to be in an area less busy than the coast, we are already talking about a future walk along other parts of the Côte d’Azur.