December 28, 2025 – Miyakojima – 48 km day ride to Ikemajima – Guesthouse Re-Spect

December 29, 2025 – Miyakojima – rain day, no riding – Guesthouse Re-Spect – total distance cycled: 679 kms – island count: 12, with the addition of Ikemajima

Ruth: Awamori is a distilled rice drink that is central to the Ryukan culture on Miyako island. Whether you are a participant at an otori, a gathering with rounds of toasts and shots, or a ceremony at an utaki (a shrine), a bottle of awamori will be passed around. We were fortunate to experience both. 

Last night the host at our guesthouse invited us to have dinner with some local sugarcane farmers. Fortunately, a man from Tokyo was able to help us with translation. The meal began with a discussion of various things from the sugarcane harvest, family and children. There was great laughter when I showed a picture of my own “baby”, our cat Milo. We were told that his name is very similar to the word for cat in the local language. (Every village has its own language on Miyako. According to the mayor of this village, who we met today, only about twenty people still speak theirs.) 

Early in the evening I noted that the farmers were not eating much, but their glasses were being frequently refreshed. One of the farmers was joking and distracting me so that he could refill my glass when I wasn’t looking. As the evening progressed the volume and silliness increased. One of the farmers was very impressed with both Gord’s age and muscles. He brought up Gord’s muscles continuously, asking him what sports he trained in. Canadians are good people, we were told,  and we were one of the best couples, in their evaluation. A wise bunch.  Then the serious toasting and shot drinking began. Gord participated in one round and then we beat our retreat.

This morning we joined the local neighbours at a utaki two doors down from our guesthouse. This utaki consists of a small square with a huge tree and a stone altar for burning incense. Our host asked the local noro (female shaman) if we could attend and we were warmly welcomed. The indigenous Ryukan religion is shamanistic and matriarchal.  Women are considered more spiritual than men, so religious observances are lead by them.  The noro are celibate and unmarried, but the position is hereditary, passing to a noro’s niece.

The weather was wet and windy as we sat on a mat under the tree for the ceremony. This is where we met the mayor and other neighbors. We shared tea and umbrellas as the nori prayed and lit large cylinders of bound incense. Offerings of food were given before the awamori was passed around.  As we departed everyone was given a bag of goodies including potatoe chips and various drinks. Normally there would have been dancing, but the weather was too foul and the utaki was becoming a large mud puddle. In spite of the weather we were delighted to be a part of this community event.