May 24, 2024 – Rest day in Oviedo – Uria 25 Rooms

For a number of years we have wanted to visit Oviedo.  We have passed within a day’s walk of it on two occasions while doing the Camino del Norte, but didn’t feel that we had the necessary time.  The cathedral in Oviedo is, however, the destination of the Camino de San Salvador, so we finally made it here.

Our interest in Oviedo comes mainly from the fact that it is the site of a collection of four churches, a chapel and a fountain that have UNESCO designation.  These structures were all built in the 9th century and are characterized as having a pre-romanesque architectural style.

Asturias in the 9th century was one of the few areas of modern Spain that was not under Moorish governance.  The isolation gave rise to a unique architectural style, though there is significant influence from both Roman and Moorish traditions.

I was able to see all six of the designated structures, although two of them were closed for conservation work and could only be viewed from the outside.  There are common architectural components, such as strong vertical lines on the exterior, which make the Asturian style immediately recognizable.  There were also some features that were unique to each structure, like the frescoes in San Julian de los Prados.  These frescoes were apparently painted during the iconoclastic period, as they contain no depictions of figures, and only one overtly religious reference, a cross.

It was a privilege to be able to see these amazing pre-romanesque churches and other structures.  They must be among the oldest churches in Western Europe, and they are in a remarkable state of preservation.

Oviedo is a lovely city, worthy of an extended visit even without its architectural monuments.  It is also an active Camino city, situated as it is on three Caminos.  We saw more pilgrims wandering around town than we have seen in aggregate in five months of pilgrimage from Budapest.  Tomorrow we walk / ride the 30 kms up to Aviles, on the Camino del Norte.