May 2, 2024 – Bayonne – Saint-Jean-de-Luz – 25kms – Brit Hotel de Paris

May 3, 2024 – Saint-Jean-de-Luz – Oiartzun – 30kms – Txikierdi Alde, Spain

We have now crossed into Spain, and although the landscape and culture are markedly different,  we are still in Basque Country. For days now we have been  surrounded by hills dotted with traditional Basque farm houses or Exte as they are called in Basque. The Exte are much more than farm houses. They are large structures that traditionally contained  living quarters, stables and grain storage. They also play a pivotal role in Basque culture. The Exte are all named and define the seat of a particular Basque family. Basques are often known by their house name more often than their surname. The eldest son or daughter who inherits the house also takes on the responsibility of housing all the unmarried siblings and their parents. This explains why these houses are so large and imposing. 

We stayed on the coast after Bayonne so we could swing through Biarritz before heading to Saint-Jean de Luz. Biarritz is not our kind of place but the coastline is absolutely stunning. 

After Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Grandma and I joined Gordon to walk around the bay at Hendaye and cross into Spain. After a wonderful Menu del Dia we parted to complete the last 12 kms. 

Grandma and I forgot about the steepness of small roads in the Spanish Basque Country. Holy shit!  When the road is concrete and has slashes cut for traction you know it’s at least a 20% grade. I walked pushing Grandma up the steepest parts counting my steps up to 30 before taking a breather. I was so knackered when I arrived I couldn’t navigate the self-checkin machine at the hotel. Fortunately a lovely man working at the bar connected to the Hotel walked me through it. 

Gord had a wonderful day climbing the same roads on foot. Of course with his 3% Basque blood, he’s a natural mountain goat. 

Today, hopefully, will not be as challenging.  Grandma and I are trying to choose roads more carefully.