Miranda de Ebro to Quintana Martin Galindes – 35 kms – Albergue Valle de Tobalina

Quintana Martin Galindes to Trespaderne – 25 kms – Hostal José Luis

We have been following the Ebro River upstream from Miranda de Ebro.  The first few hours out of Miranda were not particularly attractive, but once we turned off the main road we moved into a different world.  We are once again in the Cantabrian Mountains, which are primarily limestone, and hence quite dramatic in their appearance.  This is an outstandingly beautiful region, with ample opportunities for hiking, climbing, cycling and other sports.

This area is not only an under-visited outdoor playground, but also a region with a rich human history.  There are prehistoric dolmens, medieval castles and ancient monasteries.  On the recommendation of our delightful host at last night’s albergue, we made several side trips today to visit a fortified village (Frías), a waterfall and an hermitage (Tobera).

Across southern Europe mid-May brings better weather, flowers, birds … and ticks.  This morning I turned off the quiet road onto an overgrown trail and within 1 1/2 kms I had picked eight ticks off my legs: that’s a tick every 200 metres!  With those kind of numbers the Valle de Tobalina becomes a competitive entry in my Gran Concurso de Garrapatas (Great Tick Competition).  I have read that the ticks in Spain are less likely to carry Lyme Disease and other pathogens, but this information may originate with the Spanish Tourist Authority.  My experience with Lyme Disease in Hungary last year gives that country a bit of an edge in the illness category, but it’s hard to beat the density of ticks in this valley.  Another bout of Lyme and the crown would go to this region in Spain.  I think I’ll be doing a lot of road walking in the next few weeks.