We planned a short (12 km) walk into Santillana del Mar today. Santillana is a very pretty character village that was swarming with tourists when we cycled through in 2014, but in the shoulder season it was a pleasure to wander around. We also have the benefit of staying in a palace – literally, an 18th century palace stuffed with art and antiques. We have met a number of other pilgrims at the hotel, and none of us can believe our luck in stumbling upon this jewel.

We wanted to stay in Santillana so that we could visit the Altamira Cave. Actually, that is impossible, because the cave is closed to casual visitors, but like Lascaux in France there is a fake cave that heavy breathing common folk like myself can visit.

Altamira is of course famous for its Paleolithic cave paintings. It is one of 18 caves in northern Spain that collectively have UNESCO designation for their Paleolithic art. Altamira is best known for its paintings of bison. They are elegant and moving, truly works of great art. Having visited the cave, Picasso reputedly said “After Altamira, all art is decadent.”

The New Cave, as the mock-up of Altamira is called, seemed quite well realized. It did feel like a real cave, and the reproductions of the paintings can be easily viewed and photographed. The associated museum was also excellent, and unlike museums in British Columbia, priced so that ordinary people can learn about their heritage.

We ran into a couple of pilgrims from Vancouver during our wanderings through town. They joined us for a very enjoyable menu del día at a good restaurant. During our conversation it was revealed that one of them is 81 years old. The Camino del Norte is a challenging walk, and it is inspiring to hear that someone that age is still enjoying it.