Ruth: Each morning we put on our white jackets and become  two of the many Henros (pilgrims) making their way to the temples. Most henros are Japanese, who primarily make the journey by car or by tour bus. We are part of the pulse of those walking the route. Like the Camino, we are often meeting some of the same people at the temples and then again at our guesthouses. Most are Japanese, but there is a sprinkling of foreigners. Few of the Japanese walkers have time to visit all 88 of the temples in a single trip, so they do it in sections. Yesterday and today we were saying goodbye to a few familiar faces as they returned home to resume their regular lives. 
Today I climbed up 400 meters to temple 20. The last 5 kms of the climb was the steepest road I have ever pulled my Bike Friday up with a loaded trailer. It was such a tough ride my arms are tired! It was, however, very empowering to know I can manage the over 15% grades. Perhaps no more taxi rides for me. 

After temple 20 I descended down to the river valley and followed it to the base of the ropeway (gondola) that goes up to temple 21. On the trip down this henro gave us a brocade name slip, indicating that he has made the entire journey over 100 times. I guess when you do it so often you can justify having an extra special henro outfit made for yourself. 

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