Where should we stay?

We haven’t written much about the nuts and bolts of food and accommodation on our two Caminos. If only for my own memory, I would like to make a few general comments, first about our lodging and later about dining. I know I’m going to cause some head-shaking among our...
Ill in Spain

Ill in Spain

The King: Honey I’ve lost my sense of smell, I must have Covid! The Queen: No you’ve lost your nose. If you have to be ill anywhere in the world, Spain is a good place to be. Our hosts have been checking in with us, and offering to get a doctor or anything else that...

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Puebla de Sanabria

Puebla de Sanabria

It was only 1 degree Celsius when we set off this morning. The first rest in the sun is important A few days ago we made the left turn off the historical Via de la Plata onto the variant known as the Camino Sanabres.  As we move towards the mountains of...

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Granja de Moreruela:  At the Crossroads

Granja de Moreruela: At the Crossroads

Leaving Montemarta It's raining cats dogs and elephants at the moment, and I’m stalling. Gord and Denys headed out about an hour ago and I’m hoping for a little break to start my ride. It’s always easier to start the ride when it’s not raining, even if it pours later....

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Zamora

Zamora

Zamora is a beautiful town that deserved a longer visit than we gave it. Although it has somehow avoided UNESCO designation, Zamora has 24 Romanesque churches, the largest number of any city in Europe. There is also a dramatically situated castle with an impressive...

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Easter in Salamanca

Easter in Salamanca

Gordon:  We arrived in the city of Salamanca on Saturday afternoon, the day before Easter.  All of the cities in this region have special activities during Semana Santa, and we hoped to have the opportunity to observe some of them in...

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A Camino with a bike and trailer

A Camino with a bike and trailer

I love cycle touring and Spain would be a perfect place for it. This trip, however, is not a bike tour but rather a Camino with my bike and trailer. I see other cyclists almost every day, but only once. They are moving much faster than I am, especially if they are...

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Cáceres

Cáceres

A medieval pilgrim ( and I worry about proportion)! Gordon:  Last night we stayed in the latest jewel in the UNESCO chain that we are following up the Via de la Plata: Cáceres.  There are layers of history in Cáceres, starting with the oldest known...

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Flat Tires

Flat Tires

Enrique helping me with my tire. I have travelled on several long trips without a single flat tire, but on this trip I am honing my skills at puncture repair. Perhaps this route is called the Via de la Plata, not for the silver mined or the relatively flat terrain,...

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Mérida

Mérida

Gordon:  It was a cold, wet, windy but mercifully short (15 kms) slog into Mérida today.  Southern Spain is having it’s coolest April in decades, so we have had a series of very brisk days.  Several mornings it was only 3 or 4 degrees,...

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Painting the Plata

Painting the Plata

Zafra Spain Gordon’s Total Distance Walking: 150 kms Ruth’s Total Distance Cycling: 167 Number of paintings or sketches: 7 Art teachers sometimes encourage their students to just fill their sketchbooks, insisting that every page is mileage in learning to make art....

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