Oiartzun to Icazteguieta – 38 kms – Icazteguita Ostatua

Icazteguita to Zegama – 29 kms – Municipal pilgrim hostel 

Zegama to Salvatierra – 22 kms – Municipal pilgrim hostel

We are currently following a Camino route known variously as the Camino de Vasco, the Interior Route, and the Tunnel Route.  Today I passed through the “tunnel” that gives rise to the last of these names.

The tunnel is located at an elevation of 1100 metres, 800 metres above Zegama, where we stayed in a beautiful new albergue last night.  It was a stiff but beautiful walk up through a succession of forests to the tunnel.  At the highest elevations the forest is mostly comprised of massive and ancient beech trees, which were glowing in their new spring foliage.  Although I was walking alone and had no real subject matter for my photos, I couldn’t stop taking shots of the magnificent, moss covered trees.

The tunnel itself is a natural cave that is only 70 metres in length and open on both ends.  Archaeological excavations have revealed that it has been used for at least 14,000 years, since the late Paleolithic.  It was also well known to the Romans, medieval pilgrims, and transhumant herders.  A small church has been built inside.

One of our guidebooks says that passing through the tunnel is takes you from one environmental and cultural region to another.  While the transition isn’t immediate, this high ridge does separate two distinct areas.  North of the tunnel is the Basque heartland, and a moist coastal environment.  The land to the south is still considered to be part of the Basque region, but it seems to be quite mixed with Castilian culture.  The environment to the south is also much dryer, with the open spaces and scrubby forests that most people associate with Spain.

The Tunnel Route through the Basque region was a pleasant surprise.  With practically no pilgrims (we’ve seen four others) I assumed I would be bashing my way through wet, muddy overgrown trails with little Camino marking.  In fact, the trails were for the most part well surfaced, well maintained and well marked.  There was a good general awareness and support for the Camino in the small towns, and a reasonable number of albergues, some very nice.  The Basque region is gorgeous and the culture vibrant.  This is an excellent Camino route that I would recommend.