December 15 – Sun Moon Lake – Doulin (Grand Earl Hotel) – 63 kms

December 16 – Doulin – Dongshan (Xiang Yang Tianyuan Ju Homestay) – 72 kms

Gordon:  As we were cycling along the Number 1 cycle route south of Chiayi we passed a young woman cycling with a backpack.  We passed each other repeatedly with the frequent stops at traffic lights, and finally had a short conversation at one of the lights.  We fell back when Ruth made a small adjustment to her bike, and then found that the woman was waiting for us on the side of the road.  She asked if we would like to have a frozen juice treat.  Pursuant to our policy of always accepting invitations, we agreed to follow her to a nearby community store off the highway.  We had some delicious frozen bars made with natural fruit, as well as sharing a couple of her green peppers while we talked.  Overhearing us, another woman came over to chat.  She had studied English in Victoria for three months, and was quite excited to discuss the city with us.  Before parting we had an extensive photo session and exchanged contact information.

Later we were passing through a small town around lunch time.  We stopped for a meal at a hole in the wall dumpling restaurant.  It was a great little place, with various members of the family making the dumplings from a mound of dough and a bowl of filling in the back, while someone else was frying and selling the dumplings at the front.  With the aid of Google translate we were able to order a pile of dumplings and a stuffed, fried bun each.  They were so good we ordered another round.  As usual, the proprietor came by and gave us a gift, in this case an orange each.  After settling the $6 bill, the family stood around and waved us off.

Our accommodation that evening was at a homestay on a farm near the mountains.  After settling in, our host took us for a tour of their land.  It was mostly a guava orchard, but there were also oranges, pomegranates, “golden fruit”, pineapples, and various others, several of which we were completely unfamiliar with.  As we were walking the host handed us samples of any fruit that was ripe.  Breakfast the next morning was quite extensive and served outside.  When we reappeared to depart, a large extended family, and the other guests, were waiting for us, and a comically protracted photo session ensued.

At every turn on this trip we have felt like honoured and welcomed guests.  We are very comfortable and relaxed here, and I am sure that we would have all manner of support if we had any problems.  In fact, when Ruth left the charging block for her phone at the home stay, they texted us with an offer to deliver it to our next hotel.  We declined, as it would be madness to drive 50 kms to drop off a $25 article, but the offer is representative of our interactions with the Taiwanese.

December 17 – Dongshan – Tainan (Fuward Hotel) – 60 kms