We are running out of roads on Graciosa. Our current challenge has been to criss cross around the island and cycle all of the paved roads at least once. We are now at about 97% with one more day left. Ok make that two, our Monday night ferry has just been postponed for a day because of winds.
Yesterday’s ride took us down a little road to a village consisting of only one remaining house and donkey farm. Donkey’s have been on Graciosa Island since the 15th century. As recently as the 1960’s there were more than 1000 Graciosa or dwarf donkeys on the island. These donkeys have now been recognized as their own breed and endemic to the island. In 2006 their numbers dropped to 26, with only a handful of farmers still using them for transport and work. Now with the Associação de Criadores do Burro Anão da Ilha da Graciosa, their numbers are slowly increasing. Franco, the Italian farmer who has made it his life’s work to build up the population, now has 26 donkeys on his own farm and there are at least 70 on the island. Franco’s wife told us that there is still one couple on the island that regularly ride into town with their old donkey and donkey cart.
We had a wonderful visit with Franco and his wife, their five cats and their very friendly donkeys. Once it was clear to the donkeys that I had fruit in my purse, they were more than a little bit interested in getting close. The exception was the darker one that seemed more interested in having a wee nibble of Gordon’s butt.
