Gordon:  Yesterday we left the comparatively flat roads of Transylvania for the hills of Maramures.  Travellers come here for two reasons: to see one of the most traditional cultures remaining in Europe, and to visit the UNESCO designated wooden churches sprinkled across the region.

We dropped in our first wooden church yesterday.  Within a minute of parking our bikes, a beautiful young woman materialized with the keys to the church, and proceeded to give us a detailed tour in English.  

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